The valley notebook Vega vegetable stew Picadillo de calabaza

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Picadillo de calabaza

Pumpkin, fried small fish and mint in a stew closely tied to Alhama

Pumpkin, onion, tomato and peppers simmer gently before small fried fish are added. Mint brings the freshness that marks this dish from the middle Andarax valley.

Vega vegetable stew Alhama de Almería and the middle Andarax valley
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Picadillo de calabaza

Pumpkin, mint and fried fish: a pot that turns leftovers into a taste of Alhama.

Pumpkin, fried small fish and mint in a stew closely tied to Alhama

Picadillo de calabaza comes from a kitchen that knows how to make every bite count. Pumpkin, onion, tomato and peppers are finely chopped and simmered in oil until tender and well combined. Small fish, already fried, goes in at the end—often what remained from the previous day—so it keeps some texture while taking on the juices of the vegetables.

Mint is not a garnish here. Its fresh fragrance balances the pumpkin’s sweetness and the fish’s savoury edge. The dish is directly associated with Alhama and is also shared by Alicún, Bentarique, Huécija, Íllar, Instinción and Terque. In Laujar, a fish-free version is called chilindrón; in Íllar, guisote de calabaza is made with small sardines.

It comes into its own when pumpkin is in season. Its thrifty origins also make it a natural choice whenever fried fish is left from the day before.

J F M A M J J A S O N D
At its best Available
  • Alhama de Almería, where picadillo belongs to the traditional kitchen
  • Bajo Andarax villages such as Alicún, Bentarique, Huécija, Instinción and Terque
  • Illar, where a version with small sardines is known
  • Firm-crusted bread to mop up the pot juices
  • A tomato salad served on the side
  • A young, fresh white wine with little or no oak
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